|
Newsletter March 2010
Journey in the southern Lazio countryside .
Topic : Parks - Nature
| |
| 
In the picture countryside road near the village of Castelnuovo Parano
| |
|
Voyage in the southern Lazio countryside
Although Rome is one of the most charming cities in the world, during your visit in Italy you will be surprised by the landscape beauty when exploring its lesser known surrounding and less traveled areas. Savoir-faire travelers who prefer the relaxed atmosphere of the countryside to the hectic pace of the city have much to discover in the South of Rome. This area of the region of Lazio, of which Rome is a part, is called
South Pontino
(Sud Pontino in Italian) boasts a fascinating, historical, cultural, and archaeological heritage including many interesting
archaeological landmarks
among beautiful rural scenery of ages past. The lovely South Pontino (as southern Lazio is defined) boasts diverse landscapes of outstanding beauty from vineyards and olive groves with a view spanning from the sea to the wilderness filled with deep, fern-lined canyons, mountains ravines and stunning coastal lakes. Ancient roads converge on Rome in a landscape where one still feels the vestiges of a mighty empire that pervades the land. It’s a magical place to walk.
The location of this area of the southern Lazio region in central Italy between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennine foothills makes it a vital geographical, cultural and historical link between North, Central and South Italy. But to truly understand how most of the countryside beauty was preserved until these days; it is important to explain the relationship between the local Italians and the countryside which is different for example from that of the British.
In fact, the reason for the beauty of the countryside landscape of Southern Lazio is down to not only the great weather or the location between rugged mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, but also the fact that within the same region lays the Italian capital. In fact, Rome’s imposing presence emphasizes the centrality of the region for its historical and artistic importance and for all the cultural movements and the flow of capital, goods and, last but not least, people.
 Click Here to see the Photos of the Newsletter
|
|
|
| 
Countryside road near the village of Santi Cosma e Damiano near the border with Campania
|
After the huge exodus towards Rome that occurred after the last World War, the rural world in Lazio lost many workers with the sudden drop in the number of the populace of the Lazio countryside. This affected the rural landscape, particularly here in South Pontino. The countryside was partly abandoned to itself and in many areas, became wild again. Despite the millenary human presence, it is not uncommon to find hidden valleys and rugged hills among the
Ausoni
and Aurunci Mountains where the beauty of cultivated fields is bordered by the edges of more natural areas conquered back by wilderness. These factors created a landscape of unique beauty which most of the foreigners can’t even fathom. This is only two hours drive from large cities of Rome and Naples.
Statistical research shows that many of the Italians now living in these two nearest big cities of Rome and Naples have their origins dating back one or more generations in the rural areas of southern Lazio and northern Campania.
|
|
Their parents and/or grandparents almost certainly came from the countryside of the two regions of Lazio and Campania. It is the culture, amongst this new generation to shun their countryside heritage. This may explain why the majority of the Italians are not that keen on spending too much leisure time on the countryside. The Italian working and mid-upper-class seem to prefer a seaside escape.
These may be the main reasons why the countryside of southern Lazio has been left to a large extent, untouched, in harmonious balance with the surrounding nature with most of its natural beauty intact. Here the walks are scenic and full of surprises. In each itinerary you can savor the taste of discovery and adventure over a glass of enjoyable wine and a delicious meal with the local
rural cuisine
drawing on its rich traditions. The
Lake of Fondi
is surrounded by a beautiful countryside, framed round wine producing hills. It is a haven for bird watching, canoeists, licensed anglers and those wanting to walk, relax, and sunbathe with no crowd or noisy motorboats around. Here motors boats can only be used by the fishermen who supply the local restaurants with salt-water species of fish.
The lake is very close to the sea, it is a place with its own micro-cosmos of traditions,
culinary flavors
and recipes. The area around the lake has now been awarded as a Natural Monument since 2006 and has been included in the new protected area of the Ausoni Mountains and Fondi Lake Natural Park by the Lazio region. The clear waters of the Fondi Lake are the livelihood of the local fishermen.
The lake of Fondi is a 10 minutes drive from the medieval
Terracina
district (8 km) and less than 3 Km (2 miles) from the sea where there are several nature reserves; such as the Ausoni Mountains Natural Park, 20 minutes from the Aurunci Mountains Park (western border near Fondi 11 Km), 10 minutes from the Sughereta di San Vito Natural Monument , one the largest woods of Cork Oaks in Italy (6 km from the lake north banks), Riviera D’Ulisse Marine Park and its 2000 years old
Tiberius Cave
and open-air Sperlonga National Archeological museum, 25 minutes from the town of San Felice Circeo with its port and nation park: 20 km;
This peaceful, serene lake, it’s surrounding countryside and the nearby regional parks are wonderful in every season but they are most lovely in the springtime.
|
|
Walk in the countryside through history
In our excursions of discovery we have attempted to identify and recapture the very essence of these rural areas, suggesting diverse possible routes to discover the traditions and rural beauty of these territories of southern Lazio. On these green secluded valleys, sunny and isolated rolling hills and mountains of the central pre-Apennines range, travelers will find that the natural landscape often blends with ancient ruins and the evidence of mans historical subsistence, resulting in its unique brand of history.
Once in the countryside, off the beaten track you will be surprised with your own discoveries. In the South Pontino’s countryside there are rivers, valleys and mountains dotted with rocks and forests, fortresses and ruins and small, old rural churches, imparting on the
|
Gravel mountain road on the Aurunci Mountains Natural Park leading to La Valliera
|
|
traveler a sense of a grand ancient and famed history for its nature lovers. Some researchers have recently discovered the presence of an ancient civilization among the Aurunci and Ausoni hills and mountains.
On a particular mountain range, overlooking the tops of sunny hills and mountains, among a piece of gorgeous countryside, you will find the ruins of ‘Castellieri’, like the Castelliere di Monte Passignano in the countryside around the village of Lenola.
The Castellieri were fortified settlements on the summit of mountains. The history of these fascinating places is very ancient and dates back over 1200 years before Christ, when the valleys and mountains were isolated and some primitive
Italic tribes
lived on the fortified hills. The Castellieri developed during the Bronze Age right up to the Iron Age, only to disappear almost completely after the Roman conquest and domination. Built as mighty fortifications, the Castellieri were placed on strategic points: guarding valleys, mountain peaks, steps and natural pathways and were used as a last resort refuge, easily defendable in case of sudden raids from riders or other invading tribes. From this vantage point, the local people could better defend their families, stocks and animals.
Click Here to see the Photos of the Newsletter
|
| 
Scenic country road between the villages of Pico and Sant’Oliva in the northern part of South Pontino | |
Between the towns of
Itri
and Fondi along the modern Via Appia road you find the longstanding course section of the ancient Via Appia built in the third century BC. This ancient section was built by the Romans and is still amazingly well preserved in a spectacularly beautiful area among old olive trees. Here in Southern Lazio, the ancient Via Appia runs forming a spectacular route, passing through the Itri’s mountain pass, the canyons and ravines of the surrounding Aurunci Mountains.
From observing the Via Appia’s old stones, you are imparted with a sense of history, and understand why the Romans called it ‘REGINA VIARUM’ meaning the queen of the roads. If these stones could speak they would explain how the Romans engineers strategically built this specific route, in 312 BC, through inaccessible valleys. They would tell of the hard work involved in cutting rocks, digging terraces and placing the paving for the construction of the temples and huge water tanks.
|
|
They would also recount the tales of the Roman legions marching under the southern sun, of merchants traveling east to far lands, of battles and ambushes by bandits, of extraordinary journeys of famous historical characters and/or daily voyages of common people from those ancients time to this day. The
ancient Via Appia
, is a road that crossed the centuries which became millennia and determined the fate of populations and civilizations near or distant from Rome.
Campello Vecchio is an interesting place to discover in the heart of the
Aurunci Mountains Natural Park
. There are the very ancient and fascinating ruins of a Longobard settlement dating back 700 AD.
Beginning in 568 AD the Longobards, a large group of Germanic people, invaded and conquered Italy including this area of
southern Lazio
. What influence had the Lombard invasion in this territory, what impact will it have produced and how would the rights of the Germanic invaders have overlapped with that of ‘possessores’ (local land owners) of the late Roman Empire law? The Altopiano di Campello (Campello plateau) had great charm; here the Longobard presence left its mark in the ruins of an ancient settlement between Mount Faggeto and Mount Fragoloso. On foot, Campello is reachable from the town of Itri, using internal mountains trails the journey takes just over three hours of walking. In a landscape of undeniable natural beauty: the plateau is surrounded by forests, there are valleys and mountains of
Mediterranean wilderness
and the ruins of a small castle (which for its limited size was probably no more than a small defense garrison) and the ancient rural settlement (Campolancia).
In situ research and historical sources tells us that the settlement comprised of between 150 to 200 people and it was inhabited until 1478. Around 1491, the settlement was deserted as reported on page 134 in the ancient Inventarium Honorati Gajetani (dating the same year 1491); an unfinished publication was found in the Vatican Library. Historical sources from the Roman Catholic Church reports in 1176 the castle and settlement valley of Campello was owned by a nobleman, the Baron Raule di Carta: he sent five of his men to the crusade in Palestine. The Baron could afford to equip five soldiers for the Crusades; hence we assume the valley had its own infrastructure that had been slowly emerging since the Longobards’ age (300 – 400 years earlier). This was roughly the same period in which the small community slowly disappeared from the local history. The rise and dispersion of a settlement, eight hundred years of human history documented, this settlement was almost erased from time in the historical and collective memory and from the old maps in the archives.
|
|
Around the year 1000 there was a single large forest on the plateaus between the seaside town of Gaeta and the towns of Pontecorvo and Aquino on the mountains of Ciociaria, about 50 miles further north from the sea. This area at the time was dotted along a small number of tiny rural villages. Some of the villages comprised of a few families together in secluded valleys, on the wildest areas of the Aurunci Mountains. This territory was inhabited by people, explaining the number of abandoned monasteries and churches in the area.
The rural culture and landscapes of southern Lazio shows its long ruts in the history and legacy with Rome. This area has remained largely unaffected by globalization as a lot of people still have the archaic profession. Some of the local traditions are still alive, a real treasure and constellation for whomever is interested, a real gem in Italy.
This countryside and its people are part of a forgotten heritage, but they continue to be the very nucleus still vital and alive in history.
|
Peaceful countryside landscape around the medieval village of Vallemaio, eastern South Pontino
|
|
The people and their traditions cannot be confined to books, research, documentaries, but deserves to be discovered, experienced, valued and placed, for yourself, and to be at the center of any journey outside the immediate boundaries of Rome, the eternal city.
Ruins of dead cities and civilizations such as the mythical lost city of Amyclae (found recently) at Pianara; a hill among vineyards near the Lake of Fondi, ancient churches and secluded sanctuaries emerging from the past as the Santuario della Madonna della Civita (Itri), Church of Madonna del Latte (Lenola), St. Michele (on Mount Altino, Maranola) and Benedictine Convent of Sant’Onofrio (Campodimele). They can be reached only through deserted and forgotten mountain roads. The excursions also offer the peaceful sight of small isolated
medieval villages
in a countryside where vineyards and olive groves border the edge of old forests with the centenary trees at San Vito (near the village of Monte San Biagio).
The marks of an ancient region is imprinted everywhere, in every stone of the old country houses, on the wrinkles of wisdom of old people still busy working on ancient crafts like many generations ago’, in the traditions of the rural recipes with its ancient ingredients and flavors. Behind every dish, recipe or glass of local wine there is a story of wisdom and hard work, of the ancient relationship between man and land, faithful guardians of genuine flavors of the ancient traditions and history of this land.
Each place bears silent witness of the millenary, man’s contribution to nature. The southern Lazio in Italy is the place where history, the countryside, the food, the style, and the people make you want to return again and again.
|
| 
A farm in the bucolic landscape at the outskirts of Castro dei Volsci, north-western area of South Pontino | |
The South Pontino countryside - When to Visit
For lovers of the milder climates, ideally the best time to visit is from early March to the end of October maybe avoiding July and August as they are the hottest months.
The South Pontino in southern Lazio is a good starting point before visiting Rome and Naples in the hot summer because the weather is cooler than that in Rome. On those really hot days you can skip the large cities and head to the mountains or the beautiful beaches nearby. After a night in a small village in South Pontino each morning you will be woken by the bells of small, ancient churches. Today the South Pontino is still a peaceful gem, never crowded with tourists, frequented by the very few connoisseurs and pioneers who always find the best places, places unbeknown to the masses. If you wish to see more of the South Pontino countryside
click here
.
|
|
Best roads to reach the countryside :
Much of the unspoiled countryside in the South Pontino is protected by large natural parks including the Aurunci Mountains Natural Park, the Circeo National Park, the new Ausoni Mountains, and the Lake of Fondi Natural Park. You can enjoy the beauty of the ancient roads and villages dispersed over the enchanted scenery of the southern Italian countryside. Explore this lovely area on foot, by bike, on horseback or by car. Footpaths cross forests, meadows and lakes, where you can see rare birds. Stop for a picnic or eat in a local trattoria in one of the villages or towns. Try the regional cuisine, wash it down with a good local wine. Sit at a bar in one of the typical little squares and enjoy a gelato, espresso or cappuccino before moving on. Here a selection of roads with beautiful landscape all around to reach the countryside:
In the central area of South Pontino :
- SS82 from the town of Itri towards the small village of
Campodimele
and northwards from Campodimele to the village of Pico.
- Strada Vicinale Appiolo from SS82 near Campodimele towards localita Camposarianni
- Strada Vicinale Forcelle and Via delle Querce between the locality of Taverna and the town of Fondi
- SS7 (The new Appia Way) – section from the town of Itri northwards to the town of Fondi.
- SP 95 near the village of Lenola
In the northern area of South Pontino :
- SP225 and SP 95 near the village of Pastena, between Pastena and the village of Lenola
- From the SS82 near Campodimele the Strada Vicinale Piano and the Strada Vicinale Forcelle towards Fondi (south) or also towards (north) the village of Lenola.
In the north-western area of South Pontino :
- SS637 between the villages of Vallecorsa and Lenola and further north between Vallecorsa and Castro dei Volsci
- The road between the tiny village of Sant’Oliva and the village of Pico
- Via Contrada Vallereale between the villages of Castro dei Volsci and Vallecorsa
In eastern area of South Pontino :
- SP134 from the village of Santi Cosma e Damiano to the village of Coreno Ausonio
- SP76 from the area around Sant’Andrea del Garigliano to the Village of Suio Alto
- The road Via Valle di Suio from the Village of Suio Alto to the hidden valley of Valle di Suio
|
|
If you are active and like nature, hiking, archaeology, history, art and traditional Italian cuisine, then come and join us in our southern Lazio discovery- Imagine horse riding or hiking through a forest on an ancient Roman road and finding the trails of the ruins of a Roman temple or ruins dating back more than two millennia with its walls still intact, protecting it from hoards of hostile tribes.
Horse riding – equestrian centers in South Pontino
1st Stables Name:
A.S.D. Equitrek La Selva
Location address (best for Aurunci mountains):
Via Pozzo Cologno – 04024 Gaeta (LT)
Contact details – Tel:
328-049-2710 (from Italy)
0039-328-049-2710 (from abroad)
Email:
info@equitreklaselva.com
Website:
www.equitreklaselva.com
|
The section of the ancient Via Appia in the countryside between Itri and Fondi
|
|
2nd Stables Name:
Azienda Equituristica Monte San Biagio
Location address (best for Ausoni Mountains):
via San Vito 47, Monte San Biagio, 04020 (LT)
Contact details – Tel:
0771-566997 (from Italy)
0044-0771-566997 (from abroad)
Email:
equiturismosanvito@hotmail.it
Website:
http://equiturismosanvito.spaces.live.com
3rd Stables Name:
Sea Horse Club
Location address – (best for Circeo National Park and Ausoni Mountains):
Via delle Ginestre, Baia D’Argento, Sabaudia, 04016 (LT)
Contact details – Tel:
348-342-1059 (from Italy)
338-200-1560 (from Italy)
0039-348-342-1059 (from abroad)
0039-338-200-1560 (from abroad)
Email:
binegia@tin.it
Website:
www.seahorseclubsabaudia.com
|
|
|
All rights reserved - casesulweb
|
|
Go to the newsletters' archive
Search with this topic
Subscribe to the South Pontino Ezine
Refer a Friend