| Newsletter June 2009
Italy, Lazio: The South Pontino local gourmet guide ( Part IV ) - Part III - Part II
Topic : Gastronomy - Wines
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Italy, Lazio: The South Pontino local gourmet guide
1. Traditional Italian local cuisine along the coast of southern Lazio
Like the hills, the coastal area around the South Pontino’s sea is full of scrumptious dishes with fresh fish, seafood, shellfish and mollusks that are fried, boiled, grilled, stewed, baked in foil or roasted. The recipes are typically very similar to the traditional Neapolitan cuisine: like for example the well known ‘pescatora’ seafood sauce risotto, a delicious dish made from many sea ingredients that can be prepared in as many varieties according to the cooks who prepare it.
The sea in this area is a healthy and fertile source of fresh seafood used of the South Pontino sea gastronomy. The best produce is found typically in the local fish markets of the
seaside towns
such as
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Terracina, Formia, Gaeta, San Felice Circeo and Sperlonga, just when the fishermen boats come back in the ports at the early afternoon or before the evening. In the fish markets of southern Lazio, you can buy the freshest, tastiest fish imaginable; often still alive when you buy it. The slow and lazy metallic sound of the boats engines along with the waves seems to give a peaceful rhythm of the sea to coastal towns. It’s a great experience visiting the local fish markets late in the noon to discover some lesser-known, inexpensive and most probably misunderstood
local Mediterranean species
for an excellent seafood dinner.
Every now and then in South Pontino you can still see trawler boats fishing by lamplight and local people (often just for fun among friends) casting nets off the beaches to enjoy a dinner with fresh fish. Often found in the fishnet, the palaja (the name almost forgotten) is a small but tasty sole fish, the very same that 2000 years ago’
Mamurra
, a local wealthy Roman knight would bring on the ancient
Via Appia (Appian Way)
from Formia to Rome preserved in algae and seawater, to keep the freshness during the journey. So what to eat? We must say that the dishes are far too many to be described one article. Hence, here we can describe only few of the most remarkable delicacies available for seafood lovers.
To start with, there are the renowned and spicy seafood mixed starters. They are served in many ways hot or cold which often include marinated anchovies with herbs and vinegar or the delicious octopus salad, with small bits of boiled octopus with extra virgin olive oil and herbs. Among the antipasti you may also want to try new-born fish or ‘fragaglie’ as they are called in Neapolitan dialect, miniscule fish with the flavor of the sea. The fragaglie, also called ‘cicinielli’, are prepared either as sautéed with a aroma of garlic in extra virgin olive oil, or fried into little delicious ‘pizzelle’ (fragrant pancakes in the shape of small pizze) made with flour, water and salt and fried in a batter till crisp, similar to that used for corgette flowers in the local
mountain and land gastronomy .
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Along the coasts and on the Pontine Islands, all kind of Mediterranean fish, and shellfish from mussels to clams, from fish-soup to fragrant fried or roasted squids and prawns and many others are cooked similarly to the Neapolitan culinary traditions. All the fried things are wonderful, as they frequently are in southern Italy near Naples. You should not miss on to the small ‘pizzette alle alghe’, local Mediterranean deep fried seaweed in light and crunchy tempura styles which are salty doughnut-like fried pancakes with delicate seaweed inside. The tiny ‘cicinielli’ fish are also used in an amazing pizza with ‘alici’ (anchovies).
Another common starter is the simple but delicious mixed fried ‘antipasto’ (starter), with squids and Mediterranean king prawns which can also be served in a larger portion as main course.
One of the most traditional dishes is the ‘queen’ of local seafood: the fish soup. The sea’s presence shows its influence with the renowned freshness and selection of Mediterranean fish and seafood revealed in superb varieties of fish soups (zuppa di pesce).
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Today this is an expensive dish which is strictly prepared with the best variety of fresh fish and seafood, in particular the ugly but extremely tasty sea scorpion fish. It is the norm to book this dish few days before so that the restaurant has time to find and buy all the ingredients. ‘L’acqua pazza’ (literally meaning ‘mad water’) is a peculiar name for a soup made with the humblest of fish, which in olden times fishermen would prepare on their boats using fish scraps, a drop of oil, garlic and water. The poorest men of all would take a stone from the seabed and put it into the soup to add flavor.
In South Pontino cuisine
fish is often grilled alive best to enjoy its best flavor like the tasty Gulf mullet and the tender sea bass, both just as good after a short boiling. Baked fish can be seasoned using wild rosemary, juniper and fennel from the Aurunci and Ausoni hills around of Gaeta’s Gulf and Monte Circeo promontory.
Sea dishes become distinctly Neapolitan the moment one tastes the octopus steamed in its own water or, even better, when one can find the original baby octopus. The baby octopus is commonly called as ‘moscardino’ (in Italian) or ‘purpetielli’ (the Neapolitan dialect for polipetti, little octopuses) ‘affogati’ (‘drowned’ and stewed), which is a cooking term used commonly for the baby octopus stewed in a flavorsome tomatoes and wine sauce.
The smaller the octopus, the more tender and delicate the taste once cooked. If you like seafood this is an excellent dish rich and full of Mediterranean flavors where you can almost feel and taste the essence of the sea. There is also another mouth-filling local version of the sauce with the baby octopuses (moscardini), gently braised in red wine until tender and simmered in a rich, robust sauce that takes a wonderful aroma with red wine. They take on an entirely unique taste when cooked with the famous ‘mazzancolle’ (giant tiger prawns) which abound around the Gulf of Gaeta and near
Minturno
at the mouth of the Garigliano river.
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3. The cuisine of the ‘poor’ man
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The humble origins of the South Pontino cuisine are beyond doubt, evinced in the simplicity of the dishes with recipes for simple dishes and advices on how to re-combine and re-utilise ingredients. Today’s seafood hierarchy and price, has changed much from the time when the fishermen families used and cooked certain species that were once sold at an extremely low price or even thrown back into the sea. These, for example, would include sciabola, palamiti and ricci di mare (sea urchins); Still in the field of marine delicacies, the unforgettable, banned or extinct species deserve a mention - the ‘datteri del mare’ (sea dates), ‘casciolelle’, ‘sconcigli’ (local sea snails), ‘ventagli’. Traditionally inexpensive but very tasty dishes are the linguine or spaghetti with ‘cozze’, the mussels cultivated in the Gulf of Gaeta and the tiny clams dug out daily of the sand.
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Spaghetti ‘con le vongole’ (with clams) is a classic of the local Italian cuisine and in southern Lazio is prepared only with fresh clams.
Among the ‘poorer’ relatives, the rotondo fish deserves a mention, very popular on
Ponza Island
, fried or boiled with parsley, olive oil and lemon, with or without tomatoes. A place of honor in our opinion is kept on southern Lazio tables for the ‘rancio fellone’, a large crab cooked in its shell straight over a fire, the insides seasoned with aromatic herbs and garlic to make an exquisite pasta sauce for the Linguine with Crab. If you like crab, this is an excellent dish to try. The local restaurants buy the crab fresh from the market every morning and take the flesh only few minutes before cooking the linguine. And indeed, linguine al granchio makes an impressive dish on the table and an even better feeling once in your mouth. The linguine must be perfectly ‘al dente’, and the sauce rich and in wonderful proportion to the pasta with pieces of succulent, sweet crab tumbled abundantly through the sauce. With a few grinds of fresh, pungent black pepper from the grinder the dish truly becomes alive.
If you are a truly seafood devotee, not very fussy and adventurous you should not miss the linguine or risotto ‘al nero di seppia’ (with black ink from cuttlefish). Cuttlefish is often mistaken for calamari or squid, and while they are all closely related, each has its own characteristics. The cuttlefish has more flavor than its cousins and its black ink sacs are highly appreciated in Italy to prepare the black ink risotto or linguine. Cooked long and slow in a rich sauce with a little garlic, onions, olive oil, coriander, tomato, white wine and its own ink, it is great folded through a risotto or tossed with linguine. The cuttlefish black ink dishes are some of our favorites among the local
South Pontino sea delicatessen .
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If you are not bothered by the unusual black look and you are rather more focused on the actual taste this is a great dish plenty of flavor. If small, cuttlefish is often used the same way as calamari or squid ‘alla piastra’, (grilled on a barbecue) and then lightly dressed in olive oil, herbs and lemon juice. Often the firm and fleshy eels enrich the South Pontino’s menus. The eel can be fried in large slices, with flour to keep the skin crisp, then seasoned with laurel. It can also be enjoyed steamed. The swordfish, commonly fished and taken by boat off Ponza and
Ventotene ,
is a real local delicacy prepared according recipes are largely borrowed from Naples and Sicily. In the larger island of Ponza the swordfish is usually cut thin, smoked and immersed in lemon juice for curing. Squid and cuttle-fish also play an important role at table, cooked and eaten ‘alla fiamma’ (immediately whilst flaming hot) or stuffed.
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The local Gulf of
Gaeta
is renowned for its excellent production of conserved fish, for example sardines marinated in vinegar with a touch of garlic, lemon, parsley and a hint of chilli; or tuna in extra virgin olive oil and herbs, a recipe, with minor variations, known to all in the South Pontino territory (especially in Terracina and Gaeta). Any fish is obviously prepared in combination with the excellent local vegetables such as the
cicerchie of Campodimele ,
for example, popular also in the South Pontino mountain restaurants and osterie. On Ventotene Island they cultivate their own variety of very tiny lentils but plenty of flavor, coming straight from the island volcanic rocks on which they grow; the lentils are cooked in old terracotta pots on a rasher of lean tripe already browned with quarters of onion and mixed herbs, with three or four tomatoes. Lentils are a well known dish on Pontine Islands and they make a delicious soup. The local lentils were a blessing in times of war, when the small Pontine islands had to rely on internal resources to put food on the table.
Another example of perfect blending of fish and vegetables is Ventotene’s ‘favetta soup’ made from broad beans boiled into a purée and seasoned with salted anchovies, garlic and olive oil.
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A chapter apart would be necessary to describe the history and taste of the popular and tasty ‘tiella Gaetana’, a rustic bread resembling pizza, to be found mainly in Gaeta and around its bay.
The tiella used to be a poor man’s food because was made with the scraps ingredients after a long fishing day. The fishermen and peasants of ancient Gaeta,used to go out early in the morning and stay out all day. The tiella was their main staple dish, prepared it with whatever they were unable to sell.
From this modest background came today’s exquisite tiella, stuffed with anything one could get hold of, from boiled scarola (curly endive) and olives or sardines, anchovies and baby octopus to young broccoli, courgettes and onions. Each version is a triumph of taste and a slice of old traditions kept alive in our age.
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4. Suggested South Pontino restaurants for seaside gastronomy
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Itinerary 1 :
from Gaeta’s fishmarket take ---? Lungomare Caboto in direction of the old historic centre near the main port of Punta Stendardo, in Piazza Commestibili.
Time: approx. 5 minutes from Gaeta’s fish market – Tot. 1.5 Km ( 0.9 miles)
Destination:
Medieval Gaeta, the old town - The oldest area of Gaeta is a medieval urban settlement originally built upon the foundations laid during the Roman age. This medieval area is referred to as Sant' Erasmo and it is an ancient and district with many narrow streets, small hidden public stairways, remarkable churches and the Angevin-Aragonese castle, Gaeta’s defensive fortress.
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Suggested restaurant:
‘Masaniello’ - Restaurant right in the middle of the old historic town near the main port with very good choice of genuine seaside gastronomy dishes. This restaurant has never disappointed us in many years. It is the best of the best in our view for its menu and flavorsome dishes with fish, all kind of seafood, shellfish and mollusks that can be boiled, grilled, stewed, baked in foil or roasted.
Excellent for fish-based dishes. Make sure to call and book in advance during the weekend. Masaniello is our favourite restaurant by far for seafood and fish in general. The small restaurant is hidden in an old building of this seaside town right next to an ancient Roman column and arch. It is managend by a couple in the last 20 years or so. There is small sort of patio outside which is very pleasant in the spring and summertime. Masaniello’s seaside gastronomy menu and dishes is remarkable for quality and variety for such a small restaurant. All the fried things are wonderful, as they frequently are in South Pontino. The fish soup is a rather expensive dish but completely worth the money spent. In one word: delicious! You cold go for the many varieties of pasta with mixed shellfish, which often is with whatever was best in the market that day. If you want to eat more, have their exquisite grilled fish or cuttlefish ‘alla piastra’ (grilled). If you are feeling unstoppable, take a lobster or have their lobster or astice with linguine. With Masaniello you never be disappointed if you want the best fresh seafood and fish and they may surprise you with other excellent and unusual meat dishes like the veal steak with bittersweet peppers and black pepper granules.
Address: 6, Piazza Commestibili
04024 Gaeta (LT)
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Telephone: 0771 462296
www.ristorantemasaniello.eu
Itinerary 2 :
From Gaeta’s fish market take ---? Lungomare Caboto in direction of the old historic centre near the main port of Punta Stendardo. The restaurant is very close to the port (almost in it)
Time: approx. 5 minutes from Gaeta’s fish market – Tot. 2.1 Km ( 1.3 miles)
Destination: Medieval Gaeta, the old town – This is still the oldest area of Gaeta referred to as Sant' Erasmo. The roads from here leads also on the summit of Monte Orlando with the biggest and most ancient Roman tomb still standing and erected on its columns. Monte Orlando is plenty of ancient surprises and it is fairly easy to be tempted to spend the whole day exploring. Apart from the nearby Angevin-Aragonese castle, Gaeta’s defensive fortress, you can also visit the the Sanctuary of the Holy Trinity, the Cleft Mountain, a breathtaking cut that divides the limestone rock of the promontory into two, reaching down the sea level.
Suggested restaurant:
Ristorante Mediterraneo -
Restaurant on the old port near Punta Stendardo in the medieval district of Gaeta with a good choice of genuine seaside gastronomy dishes all with very fresh ingredients from the sea. The building was used in olden times as a small factory for the local fishermen to work the renowned salted anchovies of the gulf. This is another good restaurant which I discovered more recently with a simple but excellent menu’ with the seafood which is very fresh and delicious. Try not to miss the large seafood starter with fresh tuna carpaccio, smoked swordfish, stewed baccala’ (salted cod), small crostini of toasted bread with blue fish pate’ and the excellent octopus salad. The first main courses are not many but all make Mediterraneo’s menu’ very interesting. The local grilled fish is also marvelous and the seafood in general is worth tp pay a visit to this small restaurant.
Address: Via Bausan
04024 Gaeta (LT)
- Telephone: 0771 - 461212
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Itinerary 3 :
From Gaeta’s fish market take ---? Via SS213. in direction of the hillside town of Formia.
Time: approx. 15 minutes from Gaeta – Tot. 7.3 Km ( 4.5 miles)
Destination: Formia –
Likewise to the nearby Gaeta, Formia enjoys an excellent climate because of the favorable geographic location close to the sea and protected from strong winds by mountains 1300 mt high right behind the town. Formia lies in the middle of a nice-looking Mediterranean landscape with the gulf and the town framed by sea, round hills and mountains.
Suggested restaurant:
Ristorante Il Gatto E La Volpe -
Restaurant on the port of Formia in a ancient historic building nicely renovated, the restaurant is very cosy with arches of stones and bricks. This is another traditional trestaurant on the main piazza (square) where they have the town weekly market. It also serves a seasonal menu, famous for its array of antipasti, you may want to lunch on only the daily offering and then just a bowl of pasta, or a soup. The seafood tradition is well kept and followed in the kitchen of this restaurant managed since 1987 by two brothers Antonio e Giancarlo Simeone who have always had in mind to offer the most traditional cuisine with local ingredients found in the sea and in the beautiful South Pontino countryside according to the seasons. Leave it to the waiter to make up an antipasto selection. Take the advice of the waiter. They won't mislead you. Our experience is always welcoming, friendly, helpful service. This restaurant offers a good choice of the best seaside gastronomy dishes but also other delicacies more typical of the local mountains and land gastronomy. Good and interesting the winrs and spirits ‘ list.
Address: Via Abate Tosti 83
04023 Formia (LT)
- Telephone: 0771 - 21354
http://www.ilgattoelavolpeformia.it/
info@ilgattoelavolpeformia.it
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