| Newsletter June 2008
Itinerary , Undiscovered Italy off the beaten track - Minturno’s Roman Ruins :
A Voyage through History PART 1 - CLICK HERE TO READ THE PART 2
Topic : Archaeology
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Starting point :
Gaeta’s marina (lungomare) to in Lungomare caboto to Marina di Minturno – Via Appia km 156 – (tot. 23 Km) one way distance by car
How to arrive :
• by train FS from Rome and Naples, stop Stazione di Minturno – Scauri, local bus line to the site
• by car from Rome from Via Appia or Via Pontina to Terracina, then Via Flacca to Formia and Via Appia; by highway A1 Rome – Naples, exit Cassino, then Superstrada Cassino – Formia exit Minturnae;
from Naples Via Appia or Via Domiziana; by highway A1 Rome – Naples, exit Cassino, then Superstrada Cassino – Formia exit Minturnae (in the site there is car and bus stop area).
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Places of interest :
Ancient hillside villages nearby :
Old Minturno (do not be confused as the old village is up the hill inland and not on the sea as Marina di Minturno) – 5 Km
Pulcherini (take SS7 and then SP 118) – 9,5 Km
Castelforte (take Sp 125) – 11 Km
Suio Alto (old village – take SP 125 and SP 125bis) - 14 Km
Spigno Saturnia (take SS630) - 16 Km
Maranola (take SS630 and then SP 112) – 18 Km
Other places nearby :
20 minutes from the Aurunci Mountains Park (eastern border near Maranola 22 Km and eastern border near Spigno Saturnia 19 Km)
35 minutes from medieval Gaeta – 23 Km
Riviera di Ulisse Regional Park on Gianola Promontory – (take SS7 ) 8 Km
The Terme di Suio are sulfur thermal baths and were known and used already by ancient Greeks and by the Romans later on. Known in antiquity as Aquae Vescinae (the Latin name given by the Romans), the baths were extremely popular among Romans especially during imperial times. Forgotten for centuries, the baths were rediscovered after World War II with the construction of new homes and hotels in the area. The thermal baths are few miles away from the archaeological site of ancient Minturnae. In the area close to Suio thermal baths there small local hotels and services for mud therapy, irrigation for the treatment of the respiratory tract, and hearing, skin and walking difficulties. The water is mainly sulphurous (between 15 and 64 degrees centigrade). You will find spas with both hot and cold open swimming pools. In Suio you can find different kinds of waters: cool water, thermal water, ipo-thermal water and iper-thermal water. According to each different treatment chosen, the water in Suio are recommended for skin diseases, for respiratory diseases and for different kinds of rheumatisms and arthritis.
Suio thermal baths resorts :
There are several to choose from, most of them connected to small local hotels or health farms: Alba, Ciorra, Feramondi, Nuove Terme Vescine s.p.a., Santa Maria, Sant'Egidio, Terme Caracciolo Fonte, Terme Nuova Suio, Tomassi
The thermal baths of Suio are still very popular these days and recommended for different health treatments such as:
Therapies: Circulatory system diseases, Dermatological disorders, Locomotor system diseases, Respiratory system diseases, Gynaecological diseases, stomatology
Treatments: Aerosol-humages, hydro-balneotherapy nasal, shower mud therapy, nasal irrigations, vaginal irrigations, hydro-massage, inhalations, insufflations, gum irrigations, nebulisation, thermal swimming pool, crenotherapic Politzer, lung ventilation
Other cures: Hydrokinesitherapy, fitness, aesthetic medicine, personalised dietetic, massages, re-education
Opening times: 30 May-31 October.
Getting there :
Location: 170 km from Rome, on the right bank of the River Garigliano, on the border between southern Lazio and northern Campania.
Road: A1 direction Napoli, exit San Vittore, then follow the SS 430 for 15 km
Rail: Roma-Napoli line, stop at Minturno-Scauri railway station, then 15 km by road
The 1832 Minturno Bourbon bridge . Few hundred yards from ancient Minturnae on the river Garigliano there is ancient bridge plenty of history built in 6 years, between 1826 and 1832 suspended on iron chains and designed by Luigi Giura; It is the Bourbon bridge built, under the kingdom of Ferdinand II of Bourbon. “Guarding” the bridge two couples of spectacular sphinxes. Destroyed during the Second World War, the bridge has been recently restored and brought back ti its old beauty. The design and technology used (it is a bridge at one span) were a real challenge for that age. On the left side of the river, near its mouth, a tower 25 m high was built during the second half of the 10th century by the prince Pandolfo Capodiferro both as a fortified structure and to celebrate the vital victory against the Saracens in 915 AD. Before the Second World War, in this tower the minister of the public education Pietro Fedele had there inaugurated a very important museum which was then unfortunately destroyed in 1943 by the retiring German army.
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Things to Do in the Area :
Beaches and swimming :
(Gianola beach) beach walking, a long beach of about 4 km is washed by the Tyrrhenian sea. There are small rocky inlets around Gianola’s Promontory where you can swim near the ancient Roman port, part of the Riviera di Ulisse Regional Park . This is a small urban park with ancient archaeological ruins of Mamurra’s Roman villa . The coast here offers a beautiful view of Gaeta’s Gulf with the suggestive environment of Roman ruins and stretches of the native flora with the species of Mediterranean scrub.
Wind-surfing, fishing and other activities :
In the gulf from Gianola Promontory and from Vindicio’s beach (near Formia), fishing in the Garigliano River (best period Spring and Autumn) and in the Gulf of Gaeta , excellent local South Pontino gastronomy, archeology sites, para-gliding on the Aurunci Mountains from Mt Redentore’s peak , sailing in the Gulf of Gaeta, clubs and discos in summer time, local gastronomic and religious events.
Birdwatching :
On the nearby Gianola Promontory part of the Riviera di Ulisse Regional Park there many species of birds both nesting and migratory. Some of the most common are the kestrel, Blue tit, Great tit, goldfinch, jay, hoopoe, swift and several species of seagulls. Interesting sights of passing by species include also cormorants, egrets, blue herons and buzzards. The charming beauty of the landscapes of this small sub-urban park are in the typical Mediterranean scenery offered by the gulf of Gaeta, with the rugged mountainous coastlines of the Aurunci and miles of striking vineyards, orchards, garden terraces
Fishing :
ask for a fishing license first! After that you can enjoy a fantastic day out in the Natural Reserve of the Lake of Fondi or also a relaxing fishing and swimming day in the Gulf of Gaeta (here you do not need a fishing licence)
Ecological walking and excursions :
The area of Old Minturno is plenty of minor roads and country lanes through some of the most picturesque rural countryside. We recommend the beautiful countryside all around the village of Minturno and in the area of Pulcherini (take SP 118 from Old Minturno), Tufo (take SP 120) and Castelforte. The small village of Maranola leads to Mt. Redentore the rounded crest with the statue of Christ on top; and the village is famous for its live nativity scene during Christmas.
This countryside area is not far from the sea and still like many years ago’. Once you arrive in the tiny village of Pulcherini , park your car and start enjoying the beautiful and relaxing countryside. The ecological walk between Tufo and Pulcherini , through the countryside of San Vito and the Hill of I Bracchi, starts from and arrives at two churches, San Leonardo and San Giuseppe.
The walk, both energizing and enchanting, goes through the most beautiful area in the Minturno inland . A path traversing the territory rich of history and traditions, with explanations along the path which will take back to the origins of the two villages, and will re-evoke the ancient rural life, undoubtedly more vivid and vibrant in the past than today. The walks will allow you to discover both the wild and domestic flora present in the countryside.
Cultural sightseeing :
As well as the baths, which offer a range of recreational and sporting activities. The baths are 7 km from Castelforte , near the village of Suio . This area is blessed with several points of natural and cultural interest, including archaeological sites, medieval villages and the nearby beaches of Gianola near the beautiful promontory of the Riviera di Ulisse Park and Vindicio beach soon after Formia .
Discover the little hillside villages in the area of Old Minturno (Minturno vecchia in Italian), where you can buy 100% home made cheeses, ham, bread (pane casareccio) and all sort of gourmet products still made by grandmothers and local farmers including the excellent local wines (still home made).
Roman AQVĆDVCTVS (aqueduct)
A walk in the countryside at the feet of the hills under Old Minturno will surprise most of the visitors with the view of the Roman aqueduct built under Emperor Vespasian .
A beautiful surprise for archaeology and countryside lovers. Coming from Formia the impressive Vespasiano's aqueduct can be seen, with its long theory of arcades fading into the countryside and reaching, after 11 km, the Capodacqua's springs.
The aqueduct has survived two millennia in a long sequence of arches that make it possible to reconstruct its course entirely. The concrete structure started in the area of Capo D’Acqua, at the foot of Mount Spigno Saturnia in the Natural Park of the Aurunci Mountains, and was erected between the end of the republic and the beginning of the imperial era. The aqueduct met the city walls in opus quadratum of tufa at the Porta Gemina, named after its two identical gates.
In Roman times the water, on its way between spring and city, would have passed bridges, tunnels and arcades, but also basins with specific functions some of them even with more than one function. Apart from the well known distribution basins (castellum aquae), some basins were made for collecting, for cleaning or to decrease in the velocity of the water flow.
The design and building technique used date back its construction to the first 20 years of the 1st century AD, right in the years of Emperor Vespasian.
The structure of the arcades, in some parts extremely high, is in tuff brick reticulate. The aqueduct was providing ancient Minturnae with fresh spring water and was entering Minturnae by the town gate called Porta Gemina (Gemina’s door). Although destroyed in some sections the majestic aqueduct (almost unknown even to Italian tourists) is preserved almost entirely in all the beauty of its 120 arches.
The closer the aqueduct gets to ancient Minturnae the more was embellished with beautiful artistic designs in typical Roman style of the Republican age. Mysteriously, some sections in the hidden in the countryside are presenting even more accurate and beautiful decorations. Some archaeologists hypothesized that those sections were close to private villa of wealthy Romans. This ancient and majestic aqueduct is still visible and stands out with its 120 arches in the idyllic countryside near Old Minturno, in the area of Archi-Virilassi. The aqueduct seems almost running towards the hills with all its long past.
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Time way in : 30 minutes by car or 20 by motorbike from Gaeta
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Returning :30 minutes by car or 20 by motorbike to reach Gaeta
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Minturnae before the Romans (8th-5th century BC)
"Rem tene; verba sequentur." (Grasp the subject, the words will follow.)
Cato the Elder 234 - 149 BC
Roman statesman
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The South Pontino offers many surprises to visitors who have never been here before. Its nearness and legacy to Rome connect this territory of southern Lazio to the eternal city. Few miles south of Gaeta, travelers can visit and view archaeological marvels from the past at Minturno very near to the natural beauties of Gaeta’s Gulf. The Roman name of this ancient site was Minturnae. Visitors coming here will discover and enjoy at Minturnae the hidden splendors in this little-explored-but-rich-in-history archaeological site. This ancient site has a long and interesting history of habitation beginning in prehistoric times before the Romans expansion with influences of the Latin and Indo-European populations.
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Minturnae’s history started well before the Romans age around 1000 years BC when the Italic tribes of the Aurunci entered southern Italy and slowly settled in the area between the hills and coast southern Lazio and northern Campania. Initially the Aurunci tribes occupied the best positions on the surrounding hills. But then they settled by building small fortified villages in strategically dominant positions and then built villages like the initial settlement of Minturnae to resist external incursions and attacks. Bloody territorial wars were the result of the first contacts with the early expanding Romans.
Around the 6th century BC Minturnae was an important settlement of this Italic population, forming the Italic "Aurunca" Pentapolis (means 5 cities alliance) together with Vescia, Sinuessa, Sessa and Ausona.
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Ancient Roman sources described the existence of a pre-Roman city on this site near the river Liris (today Garigliano River) where the ruins are located. Titus Livius, the great Roman historian known as Livy wrote that Minturnae’s fist contact with Rome started in 504-503 BC.
In 315 BC Minturnae and the other Aurunci Pentapolis cities declared war against Rome and formed an alliance with Rome’s enemies, the Samnites. As result, the town and the Pentapolis were destroyed in the same year.
Roman historians started to be interested in Minturnae and its population when Rome entered into conflict and completely destroyed it controlling all the territory in southern Lazio.
One of the most important finds arising from excavations of the most ancient area of Minturnae is a sanctuary to the goddess Marica, the earliest stages of which date from the 6th c. B.C. New excavations are still investigating and researching the far past of Minturnae before it was destroyed by the Romans when the town was inhabited by the Aurunci.
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Minturnae as Rome’s colony.
"Veni, vidi, vici" (I came, I saw, I conquered)
Julius Caesar 100 - 44 BC
One of the greatest Roman military and political leaders
After Minturnae was conquered by the Romans in 315 BC, 18 years later it was permanently colonized as Rome’s colonia civium Romanorum (means colony of Roman citizens). This was facilitated in 312 BC with the construction of the Appian Way. The first of the great Roman roads connected the area of the destroyed Minturnae directly to Rome. The same sections of ancient Appian Way described in
Terracina
and then again in the area of
Fondi’ Lake
start again towards south to reach the archaeological site of Minturnae.
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Therefore the Romans decided to rebuilt Minturnae and use it as a colony in 295 BC. Shortly, in the space of about 100 years from the construction of this first stretch of the Old Via Appia the local population begun also to absorb the Roman culture and character.
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From the beginning Minturnae occupied a strategic position for the control of the crossing of the Garigliano River (the ancient Liris), along the route of the Via Appia (312 BC) and the new colony intended to serve the eternal city as a small but important military outpost. In the Republican age of Rome Minturnae was probably a small outpost made up between 5,000 and 6,000 population drawn from both Rome’s urban population in search of new land and by the neighboring local Latin people who accepted to be under Rome’s rule. In addition to securing a strategic military outpost against the Samnites and the remaining Latin tribes, Minturnae grew to a respectable size due its strategic position on the sea at the delta of the Liris River.
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History recounts that in its first two centuries under Rome, Minturnae was destroyed twice by fire but it was recolonised more than one time with other two successive settlements, respectively during the ages of Julius Caesar and Emperor Augustus who sent to Minturnae their demobilized veterans.
"Civis Romanus sum" (I am a Roman citizen)
Cicero 106 - 43 BC
Roman statesman, lawyer, political theorist, and philosopher
As Roman colony Minturnae grew in importance and developed reaching a considerable size already before the time of Caesar and Augustus. During the 1st century BC, after the connection to Rome with Appian Way, the Romans brought travel and communications to an unprecedented level. They also cleared the Mediterranean of pirates and so trade flourished making the fortune of the ancient Minturnae. The intensity of the traffic assisted the creation of a flourishing trade with goods coming from Sicily and Egypt (Rome’s granaries) and from Spain and Africa with their great production of olive oil used for both house lighting and food.
Some historic sources mentioned Minturnae as one of the summer party towns for the sumptuous banquets organized for Julius Caesar, Mark Anthony and Cleopatra during the 1st century BC. During the reign of Rome's first Emperor, Augustus (27 B.C.-A.D. 14) the strategic position on the Tyrrhenian Sea increased the opulence of Minturnae which became an important town for the trade with the East and Africa. Eventually, Minturnae became Rome’s second port in size and importance on the Mediterranean, probably the most important port close to Rome and second only to Ostia.
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With colonies such as here in Minturnae the Romans secured the possession and control of the fertile southern Latium (ancient Roman name for Lazio) farming and stock-raising areas as well as mines, quarries and forest lands of the nearby Aurunci Mountains. Private slaves worked in domestic house of rich noble Roman families. Many wealthy Romans possessed their
summer villas
here in Minturnae and along the cost on the Gulf of Gaeta, Formia, Sperlonga up to the
Circeo Promontory .
The local fisheries, lakes and fishing grounds produced surpluses of freshwater and saltwater fish unimaginable today and the wealthy families slaves went to market to buy all the goods to prepare meals for their lords. When Minturnae became a Roman town or fairly large size in the age of Julius Caesar it is estimated that one person out of every three was a slave.
Slaves built most of the Appian Way up to Minturnae, cleaned the sewers and also built and repaired the beautiful local Roman aqueduct built under Emperor Vespasian.
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"Deos fortioribus adesse." (The gods are on the side of the stronger)
Tacitus c.56 - c.177 AD
Senator and a historian of the Roman Empire
As Roman port and colony Minturnae was important and prospered, with various vicissitudes, for many centuries. After the second colonization by Augustus in the 1st century AD, Minturnae enjoyed a long existence until its final abandonment around 590 AD when it was abandoned for a series of reasons; in fact, the same strategic position on the sea along the river Liris which made its fortune centuries before, made Minturnae very vulnerable to enemies invasions after the fall of the Roman Empire. The loss of control of the nearby mountains pushed the inhabitants to escape to more secure places (among which the medieval village of Minturno up the hills nearby). Once abandoned, the spreading of the marsh and the wild forest along the river grew wild reigned for many centuries even after the medieval age, before the new village was rebuilt on the hills few miles inland and named Minturno.
The newsletter of July 2008 will describe the second part of ancient Minturnae (part 2)
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