| Newsletter February 2009
Hiking in Italy: winter walks on the Aurunci Mountains of Lazio
Topic : Parks Nature
|
| 
The ancient Valley of Campello Vecchio
in the heart of the park
|
Hiking in Italy: winter walks on the Aurunci Mountains of Lazio
Everybody knows Rome and its tempting charm with so much to see: the history and monuments, masterpieces of the ancient world, the capital of the Christian world and the unique architectural features of the Eternal City. But Rome without its surrounding territory of countryside and harsh mountains would not have been the same and the history of entire western world may have been very different. In reality Rome and its history are intrinsically connected with the surrounding territory and the region of Lazio offers a majestic natural beauty for people willing to unveil the beauty of Italy’s rural landscapes off the beaten track.
While it is impossible to resist the fascination of Rome, with time on hands why not spending a few days exploring the nearby territories of Lazio?
|
|
Winter is a great season to travel around freely and inexpensively in Italy.
No crowds, cheaper hotels and rental accommodations but still very sunny here on the mountains of the
South Pontino
in southern Lazio. It is the right time for tourists, who often take holidays to Rome, to also discover this lesser known Italy, far away from the typical tourist routes. A
slow Italy
suitable to a more attentive and demanding travelers, capable of creating a greater interest, knowledge and appreciation for our land.
|
|
In the southernmost corner of Lazio, near to the regional border with Campania and to the volcanic heights of Roccamonfina, the sturdy limestone massif of the Aurunci dominates the coast around the Gulf of Gaeta and the seaside of Formia and Minturno. This mountainous massif is an imposing calcareous chain that is part of the majestic system of the Pre-Apennines with Mt Petrella as the highest peak at 1533 m above the sea. The Aurunci Mountains end towards north in the ample Liri’s Valley which introduces the territory of Ciociaria in the province of Frosinone (Lazio).
Located in the province of Latina and in the southernmost area of Rome’s region, the
Aurunci Mountains
range are one of the most suggestive territories of the Pre-Apennines in central Italy. The entire area reflects very much the old historic influences to the Kindgom of Naples ruled for much of its existence by either the Spanish or the French kings for almost
six centuries
from 1282 until 1860.After climbing onto their mountain roads, it is remarkable feeling the contrast between the lively seaside towns with these wild and rugged mountains left isolated and silent for centuries.
|
Winter: a herd of goats on Mt Roano (southern Aurunci Mountains)
|
|
Aurunci Mountains of Lazio: Italy off the beaten track
The Aurunci Mountains offer natural and rural sceneries of other times, with rocky landscapes very scenic and arcane. The scenery and nearness of their southern slopes falling into the sea it increases even more the kaleidoscopic contrast of this beautiful corner of Italy: very Mediterranean
towards the south
and the sea and alpine landscapes plenty of forests
towards north .
In fact, the internal territories of the Aurunci Mountains are greener and far more forested: here you can still see sheep farming taking place in the old traditional way, with shepherds and their herds grazing freely all year round on the green and grassy mountain plateaus.
The Aurunci Mountains offer a good net of 34 official hiking paths which added to the 19 official paths on the neighboring Ausoni Mountains reach a total of 330 km approximately. Of course, the existing hiking paths alternatives are many more than the official path net created on the mountains of south Lazio in 1999 by the CAI (Italian Alpine Club) of Latina. The network is based mostly on ancient
shepherd's trails
and ‘tratturi’ (old rural paths used by local woodsmen and farmers for agricultural purposes) linking wide areas in the central and southern part of Italy through the regions of Lazio, Abruzzo, Molise, Campania e Puglia. These shepherd's trails have been used for millennia for the same purposes of traditional transhumance thus preserving their ancient features.
The existing network of shepherd's tracks traced down to the pre-roman age and was further developed by the Romans who connected their network of consular routes to these mountains thus making the transhumance an established and protected traditional economical activity. It ought to be remarked the unusual coexistence of natural and man-made historical values of the beautiful sceneries offered by these mountains. It is quite common to be on a hiking excursion and notice ancient signs of human presence: old shepherd's huts made of wood and stones are everywhere on the Aurunci Mountains alongside abandoned sections of the old
Roman Appian Way .
Higher up, on the grassy upland plateaus surrounded by forests of oaks, pines and beeches, hikers will find ancient shepherds huts built in stone and wood. Some of them are still used in the summer by the local shepherds coming to check their herds of sheep, goats, cows and horses still living and roaming freely on these mountains. There are also isolated mountain refuges in stones used long time ago’ by shepherds and woodsmen with deep holes nearby which were used for collecting winter snow to be sold as ice on the seaside towns. Some of them are still used by the local shepherds during the hot summers.
Little known to walkers and nature lovers, the Aurunci Mountains are instead frequented by rock climbers, cavers and paragliders, who find in their caves and limestone cliffs and gorges the right places where to practice their preferred activities. The plus point is that people who loves the sea can also enjoy relaxing winter walks few miles away on long beaches such as Gianola, Serapo, St Agostino, 300 Scalini and the long beaches on north and south of
Sperlonga .
In fact, those who love the seaside are familiar the unmistakable profile of the Aurunci, whose steep rifts and great slopes look over the coast of
Formia ,
Gaeta and Scauri.
|
| 
Shepherd’s dogs on the peak of Mt Redentore above the Gulf of Gaeta | |
Mediterranean wilderness of the Aurunci Mountains
Wild and solitary, still frequented by shepherds and woodsmen, these mountains have been protected since 1997 as a
Regional Park
extending over 19,734 hectares, and have long been, and justly so, famous among zoologists and botanists. In fact, the protected area includes no less than 1900 species of plants thanks to the great variety of exposures which create several micro-climates and habitats within these mountains. The dense beech woods and grassy pre-alpine plateaus with wild orchids of the higher internal territory are separated by only few miles, as the crow flies, from the ilex woods and Mediterranean vegetation on the warmer cliffs and slopes near the sea. On the Aurunci Mountains grow abundantly botanical rarities such as the Euphorbia serrata, the Bupleurum rolii and Sternbergia lutea.
|
|
The encounters with the
local fauna
are interesting too. Along with the small mammals that have survived centuries of hunting, the larger wild animals are the wild boar (Sus scrofa), successfully reintroduced by hunters, the elusive wild cat (Felis silvestris molisana - the Italian sub-species), the ever present red fox (Vulpes vulpes) and the Badger (Meles meles). In recent time, zoologists and also the local shepherds confirmed the presence of the wolf (Canis lupus italicus) which is slowly repopulating the Ausoni and Aurunci mountains in lower Lazio. The mammals, with the exception of the wild boar, are very difficult to spot during excursions because they have been hunted for centuries and therefore are very cautious. Nevertheless, the Aurunci offer the chance to sight
interesting raptors
such as the peregrine falcon, the harrier eagle, the common buzzard and honey buzzard, the Eurasian Kestrel, the raven and many others nesting or migrating here from Africa later on during the spring.
|
|
The contrast between the lively seaside towns and few small villages inland on the mountains cannot be more evident. At the foot of the Aurunci, small medieval villages with the ruins of fortresses, section of the ancient Via Appia and Roman tombs bear witness to the ancient presence of man on these mountains. The villagers kept on many ancient rural traditions to themselves such as living mostly of their own produce, making
their own wine ,
producing home made ham and cured meat and baking their home made bread. The smell of wood, fire and bread sometimes permeates the narrow alley and the small squares of these medieval villages arousing the appetite. The taste of the local
home made bread
(‘pane casereccio’) baked in wood ovens is something that everyone should experience at least once in life! It is not unusual for the small local restaurants and osterie to buy and serve this quality of bread which disappeared from the larger Italian cities.
|
Beautiful winter scenery at Le Crocette between Fondi and Campodimele
|
|
The local villages offer the best starting point to reach the most interesting natural hiking itineraries on these mountains. From the small and isolated medieval villages several narrow rural roads can be used to reach good starting points for walks and excursions. The Aurunci Mountains’ hiking itineraries show the way along ridges on which ancient rural paths and remote shepherds’ trails offer magnificent panoramas of the sea near the mountains.
From the higher peaks, especially in winter, the gaze sweeps over the blue horizon of the South Tyrrhenian Sea, with the sister islands of
Ponza ,
Ventotene, the Circeo headland and of the islands of Ischia and the unmistakable shapes of the Vesuvius rising to the south. This is an extraordinary panorama to enjoy before coming back on the coast enjoy the epicurean pleasure of an Italian dinner with the best local wines.
 Click Here to see the Photos of the Newsletter
|
|
Map of best Towns and villages as starting points for excursions on the Aurunci Mountains
|
|
The best towns and villages as starting point* for interesting hiking itineraries to visit the Aurunci Mountains in southern Lazio are:
*the easiest ay to reach each town or village from Gaeta is by driving a car. Here the driving distances (in kilometers and miles):
Best towns and villages to visit the western Aurunci Mountains:
Itri - Small hillside town at 170 m altitude with 8.749 inhabitants (Itrani)- - 11.3 Km - (7 miles) from Gaeta
Fondi - Town at 8 m altitude with 30.023 inhabitants (Fondani)- - 24.4 Km - (15.15 miles) from Gaeta
Lenola - hillside village at 425 m altitude with 4.131 inhabitants (Lenolesi) – 40.5 Km – (25.15 miles) from Gaeta
Best towns and villages to visit the northern Aurunci Mountains:
Campodimele - hillside village at 647 m altitude with 733 inhabitants (Campomelani)- - 29.3 Km - (18.2 miles) from Gaeta
Pastena - hillside village at 318 m altitude with 1.672 inhabitants (Pastenesi) - 42.7 Km – (26.5 miles) from Gaeta -
Pico - hillside village at 190 m altitude with 3.123 inhabitants (Picani)- 40.6 Km - (25.2 miles) from Gaeta
Esperia - hillside village at 370 m altitude with 4.131 inhabitants (Esperiani)- - 35.8 Km - (22.2 miles) from Gaeta
Best towns and villages to visit the eastern Aurunci Mountains:
Spigno Saturnia Superiore (old Spigno) - hillside village at 375 m altitude with 316 inhabitants (Spignesi)- 22.6 Km - (14 miles) from Gaeta
Selvacava - hillside village at 246 m altitude with 369 inhabitants (Selvacavesi)- - 27.5 Km - (17.1 miles) from Gaeta
Castelnuovo Parano - hillside village at 310 m altitude with 876 inhabitants (Esperiani)- - 31.0 Km - (19.2 miles) from Gaeta
Ausonia - hillside village at 178 m altitude with 897 inhabitants (Esperiani)- - 26.9 Km – (16.7 miles) from Gaeta
Best towns and villages to visit the southern Aurunci Mountains (facing the sea):
Formia (on the sea) - Town at 19 m altitude with 34.931 inhabitants (Formiani)- 8.1 Km – (5 miles) from Gaeta
Maranola - hillside village at 270 m altitude with 5.898 inhabitants (Maranolesi) - 11.8 Km – (7.3 miles) from Gaeta
Castellonorato - hillside village at 310 m altitude with 3.998 inhabitants (Castonoratesi)- 17 Km – (10.6 miles) from Gaeta
Gaeta (on the sea) - Town at 2 m altitude with 21.179 inhabitants (Gaetani)-
Sperlonga (on the sea)- Village at 55 m altitude with 3.102 inhabitants (Sperlongani)- 15.9 Km – (9.9 miles) from Gaeta
|
|
Go to the newsletters' archive
Search with this topic
Subscribe to the South Pontino Ezine
Refer a Friend
back to the top
