Gaeta: enchanting scenery of a mediaeval beauty

The oldest area of Gaeta is a medieval urban settlement originally built upon the foundations laid during the Roman age. Heavily damaged during World War II, the reconstruction is still in process. Nothing is more relaxing then following the walkways and imagining those who have walked in the same streets hundreds of years before. This medieval area is referred to as Sant' Erasmo and it is an ancient and district with many narrow streets, small hidden public stairways, remarkable churches and the Angevin-Aragonese castle, Gaeta’s defensive fortress.

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   View of the oldest side of Gaeta
     from San Francesco’s Church

Considering its beauty and historic heritage, Gaeta medieval district can be easily defined as ‘an open-air museum built at the footsteps of the natural beauty of Monte Orlando’. The mediaeval quarter boosts some other mediaeval gems and one of its most characteristic landmarks of is the elegant late Romanesque bell tower that has a roof made of colored ceramic tiles. The bell tower of the Cathedral (1148 AD) is noticed for its pointed stone base. Not far away, there is the beautiful Duomo of Gaeta, which is the main church of the town at the base of the original center of the medieval quarter. The Duomo was officially consecrated by the papal administration in 1106. After many centuries, it was completely rebuilt in the 18th century.

The base of its bell tower is made up of many blocks taken from local Roman monuments such as the Mausoleum of L.S. Atratino on the other side of the town. Its style is varied because it has been reconstructed many times. Its facade is also Neo-Gothic and was completed in 1908. The Duomo has several precious art works. One of the oldest is the candle inside, a 13th century Pascal candle illustrating stories of Jesus’ life and Saint Erasmus, the patron saint of Gaeta. Close to the main altar there is a painting of his martyrdom, called "The Martyrdom of S. Erasmo", a 15th century masterpiece done by C. Saraceni.

On request, it is possible to arrange a visit to the beautiful marble crypt with a chapel dedicated to Saint Erasmus. The bodies of S. Erasmo and many others are buried in the ancient crypt. Again, this church is only opened during church services either in the morning or in the late afternoon. Close by we find the Museo Diocensano (Diocesano Museum), a small yet interesting museum related to the church which displays ancient paintings from the 13th century to the 18th century. It is open only on Sundays from 0900 to 1100 am.

A short walk away, on Gaeta's seafront there is a beautiful tiny 10th Century church named San Giovanni a Mare. The church is beautiful in its simplicity with a hemispherical dome and faded frescoes dating back to the 14th century. In front of the Romanesque basilica plan with 3 naves the little church shows a lovely Byzantine cupola with wall frescoes. There are sloping floors so that in ancient times the water could flow out to sea after flooding. Its sober beauty is charming, antique, and to some extent out of reality like in a movie of Pasolini.The Church of San Domenico is also in neo-Gothic style with two unequal naves and dates back to the Spanish domination as a decision 1400 by Alfonso of Aragon in 1400. The church was later consecrated by Bishop Ortiz November 11, 1470. Of notable value inside the church are the frescoes by Mattia Preti and gravestones, marble inscriptions and all the decorations.

Another church of interest is the Baroque Annunziata’s Church built with charity funds and donations in 1321, rebuilt in 1621 and then altered many times. Its initial style was Gothic but after the major reconstruction in 1621 the church assumed a marked Baroque character. The church is well-known for its oratorio (chapel) named the ‘La Grotta D’oro’ (the Golden Grotto). It has a gold-plated caisson ceiling and contains many well-known religious paintings by Sebastiano Conca and Luca Giordano. Pope Pius IX took refuge here in 1848 and celebrated the dogma of the Immaculate Conception in this church. The Pope also promoted the status of Gaeta by conceding the sit of an Archbishop to the town. The church boosts magnificent wooden choir from the 17th century too.